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Six-acre Palmer Island, in the Acushnet River on the west side of the entrance to New Bedford Harbor, has been the scene of great heroism and tragedy, and its lighthouse was once considered one of New England's most picturesque. Today the lighthouse and the island itself are sad victims of neglect and vandalism.
The island got its name from one of the first settlers of the area, William Palmer. Like Boston Harbor's Deer Island, Palmer Island was used as an internment camp for Indians during King Philip's War in 1675-76. Among the prisoners on the island were the wife and son of Philip, alias Pometacom. Most of these Indians were later sold into slavery in the West Indies.
New Bedford, Massachusetts was the whaling capital of the nation in the mid-nineteenth century. The whaling industry reached its peak in the 1850's, when New Bedford had a fleet of 239 ships.
In his 1843 survey of the lighthouses along the coast, Inspector I.W.P. Lewis pointed out the need for a lighthouse on Palmer Island: "This island lies directly within the entrance to New Bedford Harbor. A single lamp beacon placed upon it would add materially to the facilities required on entering this important harbor."
$3,500 was appropriated by an act of Congress, and the lighthouse on the northern point of Palmer Island was first lighted on August 30, 1849 by William Sherman, the first keeper. The 24-foot tower was built of rubblestone, with wooden windows and floors. A walkway connected the lighthouse to the higher part of the island.
In 1858, Joseph B. C. Tuell was born at the lighthouse to Keeper Charles D. Tuell and his wife. When Joseph Tuell died in 1935, his ashes were spread over the island from an airplane.
According to the annual reports of the Lighthouse Board, a new Fresnel lens was installed in the lighthouse in 1857, followed by a new lantern in 1863. The dwelling and tower underwent extensive renovation between 1867 and 1869.
In the 1860s, a hotel and dance hall were built on the southern side of Palmer Island, and visitors came by steamer from New Bedford. The hotel became a favorite stop for returning whalers, and predictably illegal activity became rampant. The hotel closed about 1890 and an amusement park was built. This park failed after a few years, and the hotel burned down in 1905.
George Cowie served as keeper at Palmer Island from 1872 to 1891. Cowie complained that the well water was brackish and that the smoke from New Bedford's factories blew across the island, contaminating the cistern with soot. It's unclear if anything was done to remedy the situation.
From 1888 to 1891, a red light on the nearby Fairhaven Bridge served as a range light with Palmer Island Light. This arrangement helped mariners past Butler Flats before the lighthouse was established there. Later, for a time, a light on the lighthouse was established there. Later for a short time a light on the Wamsutta Mill served as a range light with Palmer Island Light.
The early part of the 20th century saw a number of changes at Palmer Island Light. A new fog bell and striking mechanism were installed in 1900 in a pyramidal wooden tower. Later the 1,260 pound fog bell was removed from this tower and placed in a structure that was attached to the lighthouse, with a door cut in the tower to provide access.
New stairs were also installed in the lighthouse in 1900. The following year 75 tons of rip-rap stones were placed on the beach to afford some protection in storms. In 1902 a covered walkway was built to the tower, and an oil house was added in 1905.
A 1931 inspection reported that Palmer Island Lighthouse had a fourth order lens that exhibited a fixed green light, with its focal plane 34 feet above mean high water. The inspection report also mentioned that there was still a problem with soot in the drinking water from the city's factories. The report called the dwelling "old but in fair condition."
Arthur Small came to Palmer Island as keeper in 1922, moving with his wife Mabel from Boston Harbor's Narrows ("Bug") Light. Small, one of three lighthouse keeper brothers, was a gifted artist who often painted scenes on Palmer Island. He had been a seaman and lighthouse keeper since the age of 14. For 16 years Small served on the island, operating the light and fog bell.
On September 21, 1938, two days before Mabel Small's 48th birthday, the worst hurricane in New England history battered the south-facing coast.
During the afternoon of the storm, Arthur Small decided to light the lighthouse. Leaving his wife in the oil house on the island's highest ground. Small attempted to walk the 350 feet from the house to the tower. On the way to the tower, Small was struck by a large wave that smashed him against a metal fence. As he managed to get to his feet, he looked back and saw his wife attempting to launch a rowboat to come to his aid. He called to her to stop, but his voice was lost in the wind and waves. As Mabel Small tried to launch the boat, a wave destroyed the boathouse. Arthur Small lost sight of his wife.
Somehow, injured and in shock, Arthur Small made it to the tower. The house itself had been swept back several hundred feet from its original site. Small lighted the Palmer Island Lighthouse and waited through the night, unable to leave the tower until the storm abated. In the morning neighbors found the keeper and took him to a hospital. Mabel Small had not survived.
The "Boston Traveler" reported: "Mrs. Small, wife and mother, perished in a moment of high bravery attempting to go to the aid of her man. Arthur Small went through a living death during those black hours of Wednesday night while held captive in the lighthouse tower. High bravery was his in not challenging hopeless odds that the storm had set up."
Three days after the storm, Commissioner Harold D. King of the Bureau of Lighthouses called Arthur Small's performance during the storm "one of the most outstanding cases of loyalty and devotion that has come to the attention of this office."
Many of Arthur Small's paintings were lost in the hurricane, along with his large library of several hundred books. His wife had their savings of about $7,500 in her possession when she drowned; this was also lost. Arthur Small was granted a two-year absence with pay, after which he retired.
Palmer Island Light remained active after the hurricane. The light was automated in 1941. Martin Maloney was the last keeper of the lighthouse.
With the construction of a massive hurricane wall in New Bedford Harbor in 1963, the lighthouse was deemed useless. Palmer Island, adjacent to the new wall, became more easily accessible to lighthouse seekers and vandals alike. The island passed through various owners, including radio station WBSM. In 1966, the tower was burned by arsonists, gutting the interior and practically destroying the lantern room.
In 1978, ownership of Palmer Island went from Norlantic Diesel to the City of New Bedford, and local resident Dr. John O'Toole mounted a preservation effort. New Bedford youngsters picked up 20 tons of trash and debris from the island, which they converted into $300 for the lighthouse fund. A new fiberglass lantern was constructed to replace the badly burned one, and a 500-pound steel door was installed. The New Bedford Fire Department contributed a new iron spira1 staircase.
After another restoration in 1989, the lighthouse soon fell victim to more vandalism. Today, Palmer Island is covered with debris and the lighthouse is an empty shell that serves as a home to gulls. Although some sources still list the light as a private aid to navigation, the lantern room is empty.
As Palmer Island Light nears its 150th birthday on August 30, 1999, there are concerned people in New Bedford who are working to create ways to preserve and protect their local lighthouses. There is a discussion of establishing a human presence once again on Palmer Island in an effort to prevent vandalism.
Palmer Island is on the city seal of New Bedford with the motto, "Lucem Diffundo" which means, "I spread the light." Preserving this tower as a tribute to the Smalls and the countless other lighthouse families who have sacrificed for others is a noble project.
Palmer Island is accessible at low tide from New Bedford's hurricane wall. It can be seen from the New Bedford Whaling Museum and other spots on shore, and the ferry to Cuttyhunk Island passes the island.
For information on how you can help with the preservation of Palmer Island Light, write to: Mr. Arthur P. Motta Jr., Director of Tourism and Marketing, Wharfinger Building, Pier 3, New Bedford, MA 02740.
This story appeared in the
April 1999 edition of Lighthouse Digest Magazine. The print edition contains more stories than our internet edition, and each story generally contains more photographs - often many more - in the print edition. For subscription information about the print edition, click here.
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