Digest>Archives> February 2001

Maritime History from the Mouth of the Columbia River

By Kathleen Hammer

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It is unknown what lighthouse this lens and ...
Photo by: Kathleen Hammer

If you have ever dreamed of sailing across the seven seas, or even just relaxing among the bones of a shipwrecked vessel, then a visit to the Astoria, Oregon area just might be your perfect vacation. With the soft splashing waves of three large rivers lapping at its feet with the ocean just beyond, and San Francisco-like hills covered with historic homes towering above a diverse downtown area teaming with maritime history, Astoria is the sea lover’s paradise.

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The remains of the Peter Iredale wrecked in 1906 ...
Photo by: Kathleen Hammer

Tucked just inside the mouth of the mammoth Columbia River, just beneath the trestles of a giant bridge that spans the miles of water between Oregon and Washington State, Astoria is in the perfect location for travelers both by land or by sea. And that has been the case for hundreds of years. Lewis and Clark camped along the shores of the Columbia in 1805-1806, and Astoria was first settled with the arrival of John Jacob Astor’s trading company in 1811.

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The Lightship Columbia No. 604 docked at the ...
Photo by: Kathleen Hammer

Just beyond the town, across the river, stands one of the area’s oldest lighthouses, Cape Disappointment, and hidden by the headlands, shining its light for those approaching from the north, is North Head Light. But the nautical theme does not end there.

In the center of town, next to the docks, is Astoria’s famed Columbia River Maritime Museum, (1792 Marine Drive) one of only two accredited maritime museums on the west coast, and known as one of the best in the country. This 38,000 square foot wooden building, built in the shape of waves along the water, is filled to its brim with real historical vessels, photos, and other marine artifacts and literature, sorted into seven galleries, (including Fur Trade and Exploration, Navigation and Marine Safety, Fishing, Canneries and Whaling, Sailing, Motor and Steam Vessels on the River, and Naval History.)

Twirling their brilliant refracted light across the spacious rooms, two fourth order Fresnel lenses grace the museum’s exhibits, one from the North Head Lighthouse across the river, and one still encased in its tower, with a mysterious past. It was donated to the museum by a warehouse in Michigan that burned down. The lens had been there so long, and after the fire there were no records on what lighthouse it was from, so now it stands, un-named, at the center of the Navigation and Marine Safety exhibit, across the country from its old storage home.

Outside the museum, is the prime attraction—the Columbia Lightship No. 604. One of the last lightships of its kind in mint condition, it was the last one in service on the west coast, where it guarded the entrance to the Columbia River. The vessel is docked adjacent to the museum entrance, and with a museum ticket, visitors can go aboard its decks to see where its men ate, slept, worked, and spent their time. Beside the ship, a more modern beacon, the CR Buoy, “Columbia River LNB, (large navigational buoy)” is on display. The 40 foot around, 86 foot tall (including its antenna) buoy was put to work in the place of the Columbia Lightship in 1979, and decommissioned in 1993. Also, the Coast Guard Cutters, USCGC Alert, and USCGC Steadfast, are docked by the lightship and buoy, and offer tours of their ships on Sundays, when they are in port.

There’s even better news on the horizon for the CRM Museum. They are in the midst of a giant $5 million renovation, planned for a tentative completion time of one year. This project, funded by a yearlong drive, will add 16 percent more exhibit space, a new entrance, enlarged gift shop, new exhibits, including the first-of-its-kind Coast Guard Motor Lifeboat “Old Dynamite” that saved hundreds of lives on both coasts over 34 years, and a depiction of the canneries that lined the river in the 1800’s, among others.

After spending time visiting the museum, and the many little shops that line the streets of Astoria, there is always time for a trip through the historic Victorian neighborhoods, to the Astoria Column. This 125 foot tower, atop a 600 foot Coxcomb Hill above downtown Astoria, was built in 1926 by a New York architect, Electus Litchfield, to commemorate the westward settlements, including the Lewis and Clark journey, which are depicted with frieze paintings that wrap around the column in a historical sequence. Visitors can climb the 164 lighthouse-like spiral stairs, to take in the breathtaking views of the Lewis and Clark River, Youngs River, Columbia River, the buildings of Astoria, and beyond to the forests and waters miles away.

As the ocean and rivers abound in Astoria, there are also many beaches within comfortable driving distance. Fort Stevens, commissioned originally in 1863 as a Civil War fort, has miles of clean ocean beaches, and the largest state park campground in the nation with its 596 campsites, 5 group camps. and 15 yurts. Along with exploring the gun batteries and the museum of military artifacts, riding on army truck rides, watching civil war re-enactments, picnicking, horseback riding, biking, swimming, viewing a Chinook Longhouse replica, etc., you can visit the historic shipwreck of the Peter Iredale, whose hulk has been deteriorating on the Oregon beach since it got stuck in the sands in 1906.

There are many other historical and entertaining places to visit in and around the charming little town of Astoria, like the Astoria waterfront, where freighters and barges are constantly coming and going, and its observation platforms where you can watch seals, birds, and more marine life. There’s Captain George Flavel’s House, Upper-town Fire Fighters Museum, Fort Clatsop National Memorial (with a museum and Lewis and Clark camp replica,) and The Astoria Aquatic Center (with water slides, pools, etc.) Just beyond Astoria, in Warrenton, there is a Fisherman’s Memorial Lighthouse, a newly built, privately owned lighthouse, housing a museum of artifacts and exhibits about deep sea fishermen.

Clearly, among all the places on the Northwest Coast, if you are ready to spend days exploring the maritime and landlubbers’ history of the Pacific Northwest, the little town of Astoria, nestled among the hills and rivers of Oregon, is a sea lover’s dream come true.

This story appeared in the February 2001 edition of Lighthouse Digest Magazine. The print edition contains more stories than our internet edition, and each story generally contains more photographs - often many more - in the print edition. For subscription information about the print edition, click here.

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